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Michael Nelson (michaelnel)  > Motorcycles > KLR 705 Upgrade
After having done lots of upgrades to my 18,500 mile 2003 Kawasaki KLR650, the one thing left that really bugged me was the motor. It sounded terrible, vibrated a lot, and didn't have much power. I finally bit the bullet and ordered a 2006 used cylinder and head off EBay and sent them to Cary Aspy at Schnitz Racing in Decatur Illinois. Schnitz is a shop that specializes in drag bikes, but Cary is the Service Manager there and has a KLR... so he came up with some trick stuff that transforms the KLR650 motor into a fire-breathing beast. I ordered the 705 kit that consists of an oversized forged piston from J&E, a cryogenically-treated heavier sleeve from L.A. Sleeves and all the machine work and gaskets to put it all together. I also opted for Cary's "Stage II" headwork with oversize & polished ports, oversized stainless valves, lightened retainers, new guides, new seals, etc.

We did the work at my buddy Mike's house up in Angels Camp California, in the Gold Country & foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

First order of business (after removing the side covers, seat, and tank) was to replace the stock KLR clutch springs with some heavy duty Barnett springs designed for a Kawasaki ZX-10. The 705/StageII makes enough power that it'll cause the stock KLR clutch to slip. We removed the water pump and the right side cover, and once that was off you have access to the oil strainer screen.

SAD UPDATE: Cary Aspy was involved in a fatal motorcycle accident Monday evening October 6th, 2008 while on his way home from a weekend riding trip to Tennessee. His Kawasaki KLR650 was a source of pride and was used to develop many aftermarket performance enhancing products for other owners in recent years. Cary had worked for Ehlerding Cycle for 13 years before coming to Schnitz Racing in August of 1992 as the service manager, cylinder head specialist, and engine builder. He was also a neighbor to the Schnitz family for 27 years. Cary was happy to offer any advice and answer questions in detail for anyone who asked. He will be truly missed.

By the way, I am no longer on the klr650.net forums because I have been permanently banned from there for refusing to let Glenn and his ignoramus moderators dominate me.
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Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > This is what the oil strainer screen looked like when I pulled it out.  That stuff is a collection of over enthusiastically applied gasket sealer and bits of hard black plastic. This is the first time since the motor was assembled by Kawasaki that the strainer had been checked, and all that stuff is a result of Kawasaki's crappy workmanship at the factory.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Here's the stuff that was on the strainer.  We cleaned it all up, installed the clutch springs and buttoned the right side of the motor back up.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > We pulled the cylinder head off.  There was suprisingly little in the way of deposits on the piston, considering this motor has run 18,500 miles.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > This is the stock head.  It also looks good.  The motor was running good and not using any oil when disassembled, it just had the usual KLR noises, vibration, and lack of power.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > That's the stock 650 piston on the left and the ultra trick J&E 705 piston on the right.  Although the 705 piston is larger in diameter, it is forged and has the shorter more modern skirt design, making it a whopping 88 grams lighter than the stock piston.  88 grams makes a huge difference in vibration reduction.

The 705 piston is also moly coated on the skirts and the pin has a DLC coating for low friction and long wear.  Unlike the stock piston, the 705 piston's rings have higher tension.  Cary hand files the ring end gaps in the cylinder and installs one of the two piston pin clips (naturally, you have to install the other one when you install the piston in your motor).  The clips are much heavier duty than the stock ones and kind of difficult to install.  There are large reliefs machined into the piston top for the oversized valves Cary installed in the Stage II head.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Cary supplies 2 Cometic spring steel base gaskets.  One is .010 thick, the other is .020 thick, allowing the builder to choose one of three different compression ratios.  If you use just the .010, you will achieve a compression ratio of 9.98:1, requiring 91 octane fuel.  If you use the .020, the compression ratio is 9.8:1 (89 octane required).  If you use both gaskets for .030 thickness, the compression ratio will be 9.62:1 which is recommended if you will be using low grade gas a lot (as in Mexico).  

I opted for the medium compression ratio (stock is 9.5:1) as the best compromise, so we used the .020 gasket.  In this picture we are fitting the cylinder over the installed piston after setting the ring end gaps per Cary's instructions.  No ring compressor is required, with enough patience you can work the rings into the bottom of the cylinder.  The oil scraper rings are the hardest to get in.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Here is the cylinder with the modified head gasket installed.  Cary supplies an OEM head gasket that he has machined to accept the 705's oversized bore.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Here we have installed the Stage II head and it is waiting for cams.  I didn't send Cary any cams with the EBay head, so he supplied shims that were his best guess to arrive at the proper valve clearance.  Cary recommends slightly different clearances for the StageII head, .007-.008" intake, .008-.009" exhaust). In spite of his not having my cams, the shims he supplied put the valves at exactly the clearances Cary specified.

Cary's attention to detail is further shown by that lime green sticker on the thermostat housing in the picture above.  It is a note to tell you that the stock thermostat is inside, and should be removed if you are running Bill Watson's "ThermoBob" cooling system modification that has its own thermostat in a different location.  I do run the ThermoBob, so we removed the thermostat.

For more details on Cary's porting and headwork artistry, see the separate gallery here on my Smugmug site.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Here's the crew of guys who were so helpful during this project, Tim, Mike, and Rich.  Thanks a ton, guys!

I did the rejetting work while the guys finished the motor work.  I live at sea level and the bike has a Staintune exhaust, the snorkel has been removed from the airbox, and I am running a UNI air filter.  Cary recommended and supplied a KLX needle with adjustable clip positions.  I put the clip in the #2 slot.  I put in a new slide & diaphragm (my old one had the vacuum lift hole drilled out and that is not recommended with the 705/StageII), and installed a 150 main jet (Cary supplied a selection of main jets and even included stainless allen screws for the carb top and float bowl).  I installed a "no tools adjustable" idle mixture screw with a knurled knob and set it at 2 turns out from lightly bottomed.

After double-checking all of our work we got the bike all back together again and fired it up.  After the float bowl filled, it fired right off and settled into a throaty-sounding very smooth idle.  

When I say smooth, with the engine idling if you put your hands on the grips you can barely tell the engine is running.  It's that lighter 705 piston at work.

Because forged pistons have a larger coefficient of expansion, the piston to cylinder clearance when cold has to be larger... resulting in some additional mechanical noise until the engine warms up.  After it warms up, my 705 is quieter than the stock engine by a large margin, at least mechanically.  The headwork makes the exhaust louder than before though.
This is what the oil strainer screen looked like when I pulled it out. That stuff is a collection of over enthusiastically applied gasket sealer and bits of hard black plastic. This is the first time since the motor was assembled by Kawasaki that the strainer had been checked, and all that stuff is a result of Kawasaki's crappy workmanship at the factory.
 > This is what the oil strainer screen looked like when I pulled it out.  That stuff is a collection of over enthusiastically applied gasket sealer and bits of hard black plastic. This is the first time since the motor was assembled by Kawasaki that the strainer had been checked, and all that stuff is a result of Kawasaki's crappy workmanship at the factory.
This is what the oil strainer screen looked like when I pulled it out. That stuff is a collection of over enthusiastically applied gasket sealer and bits of hard black plastic. This is the first time since the motor was assembled by Kawasaki that the strainer had been checked, and all that stuff is a result of Kawasaki's crappy workmanship at the factory.
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