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Michael Nelson (michaelnel)  > Motorcycles > KLR Footpeg Strengthening
My buddy Mike and I were talking about the whole business of strengthening the weak footpeg mounts on our KLRs. Mike didn't much like the idea of cutting the boxes open, chiseling the nuts out, welding new ones in, bending the box back together, etc.. He came up with the following method, and we did it to both of our bikes today. Note that this mod will preclude the use of aftermarket center stands or other lame accessories that use the center stand mounts.

By the way, I am no longer on the klr650.net forums because I have been banned from there for refusing to let Glenn and his ignoraumus moderators dominate me.
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Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Here are the component parts.  Steel plates, 3/8" NF Grade 8 bolts and nuts.  Stock bracket has been drilled out to allow use of the larger bolts.  The 3/8" SAE bolts are a little over 9.5mm in diameter.  A 13mm wrench fits them well.  We mostly went with these bolts instead of 10mm metric because they are fine thread and because the only hardened 12.9 10mm bolts we could find were black oxide, not plated.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > These are the assembled brackets.  Weld the nuts in place and then grind down the welds so they will fit in the holes to be cut in the frame boxes.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > This is the standard unmodified box.  The nuts in there are M8 coarse thread into very thin nuts.  These things have a long history of stripping out on KLRs, and are the reason we came up with this strengthening modification.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > This is an 11/16" "bimetal" hole saw from Ace Hardware.  Make sure to get the metal cutting version like this one, about six bucks.  The brass piece on the drill bit is just a piece of a compression fitting for tubing, used in this case because the drill bit is not actually used in this procedure.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > After using the hole saw, reach in and extract the old nuts from the box.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > This is the box with the nuts removed, ready for grinding.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Grinding the surface of the box to make it nice and flat for welding.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > The box as prepared for welding.
Michael Nelson (michaelnel) > Lay the plate on the box with the welded nuts in the holes we made with the hole saw. Use a hammer if necessary to get the bracket lying flat on the box before welding.
Here are the component parts. Steel plates, 3/8" NF Grade 8 bolts and nuts. Stock bracket has been drilled out to allow use of the larger bolts. The 3/8" SAE bolts are a little over 9.5mm in diameter. A 13mm wrench fits them well. We mostly went with these bolts instead of 10mm metric because they are fine thread and because the only hardened 12.9 10mm bolts we could find were black oxide, not plated.
 > Here are the component parts.  Steel plates, 3/8" NF Grade 8 bolts and nuts.  Stock bracket has been drilled out to allow use of the larger bolts.  The 3/8" SAE bolts are a little over 9.5mm in diameter.  A 13mm wrench fits them well.  We mostly went with these bolts instead of 10mm metric because they are fine thread and because the only hardened 12.9 10mm bolts we could find were black oxide, not plated.
Here are the component parts. Steel plates, 3/8" NF Grade 8 bolts and nuts. Stock bracket has been drilled out to allow use of the larger bolts. The 3/8" SAE bolts are a little over 9.5mm in diameter. A 13mm wrench fits them well. We mostly went with these bolts instead of 10mm metric because they are fine thread and because the only hardened 12.9 10mm bolts we could find were black oxide, not plated.
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